Each day of our journey started out with a large Scottish breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding, cooked tomato, mushrooms, potato scone, toast and if we were really lucky fresh cut-up fruit with yogurt and always some dried cereal choices). Let’s just say, we didn’t starve. If you are wondering how the vegetarians fared… they served vegetarian sausage!
After our large breakfast, we made our way to the start of our West Highland Way trek. The official beginning or end (for those starting in Fort William), is in the middle of the town of Milngavie (pronounced mul-guy) at a granite obelisk, where of course we took our first team photo…
After posing for photos, we picked up our official WHW passport booklets to be stamped at each town we walked through. At the end of the journey we would present the passport and receive a certificate of completion, a fine souvenir.
With our first stamp under our belt we began our 96 – mile journey. From the start we could tell this would be a well marked footpath as a variety of signs showed us the way. The path shown below took us under a road into a lovely forested foot-path and eventually to footpaths with sweeping views.
The beginning of our 13 mile day started out dry, but then turned to intermittent rain and finally ended with a steady rain fall. A warm welcome to the “fine” and unpredictable weather of Scotland! Luckily we would only endure two rainy days on our trek. And we learned that if rain does fall on your trek, the best day for it is on day one, as the foot paths are quite level (flattest day of the trip), relatively smooth and the spectacular views don’t come till day two.
We found trees to shelter us on our rest breaks…
As we hiked along we saw the rolling hills and countryside of the Campsie Fells, but due to the rain did not see the mountains of the Highlands in the distant horizon.
At the half way mark on this first day, basically at lunch time, a conveniently located restaurant sits next to the trail called the Beech Tree Restaurant. We had packed our lunches, but wanted to dry off a bit, so we went inside and ordered tea and scones. These had to be the best scones of our trip, served with whipped butter and homemade jam. After our snack we were shown the trekkers’ picnic area where we ate our sac lunches. It didn’t take long for us to start to get cold, so we ate quickly and continued on our way.
The rest of the day was wet and a bit muddy, but mostly through lovely wooded areas. We did discover one area of deep mud as we walked through some farm lands, giving us a full-on initiation to the West Highland Way!
We finally made it to Drymen and to our B&B, wet and very happy to be able to take a warm shower. Our first day concluded with a celebratory dinner at the Drymen Inn’s Restaurant. Our meals were phenomenal, and since we had burned so many calories walking, each table shared a sticky toffee pudding dessert, topped with ice-cream, of course!
Next up WHW Trek Day 2: Drymen to Balmaha to Rowardennan
Until then,
Keep on Trekking!
When I hit the top of the trail, I stayed for a bit to enjoy the 360 degree view. An English couple had beat me to the top and were having a quick nap in the grass. We conversed for a bit and then I was on my way down and into Brodick. My seven days were done and when I arrived at the information/tourist center I found out that I earned a certificate and a pin for completing the journey, making for a grand souvenir!
The path on the coast was also along an over-grown grass trail just above the beach and and thanks to the rain, it drenched my feet. My trail running shoes are water resistant, but not water proof by any means! This is a discomfort I choose, as I am not a boot fan (some boots are waterproof). I just bring a decent amount of extra socks to change into on those wet days. If you are a boot fan, this would be the trek for boots.
I reached Hotel Kildonan and asked them if it was okay that my soaking wet self came in. They smiled and welcomed me into the bar. I sat and had two coffees and contemplated staying at the hotel as the rain was not letting up, but decided to trek on to Whiting Bay. This was the only night I didn’t have reservations. I was hoping since it was a bigger town along the trek that I wouldn’t have a problem finding a place to stay. I was lucky to grab the last room at Hotel Burlington located directly across the street from the coast. I don’t recommend flying by the seat of your pants on this trek, reservations are important. Places do get booked and some areas do not have many places to stay.
The Burlington Hotel was very nice. My only complaint was the music that played at breakfast. They could have made more appropriate music choices for the older generation of guests staying at their place, otherwise it was a fine place to stay for 50 pounds, which included breakfast.
After a bit of a smelly coastline (this didn’t last long), and some not so even footing and bog, I found the cave of the day. This cave is referred to as the Preaching Cave. According to 
At the cave I prayed for even footing the rest of the way, but to my dismay the bog became worse and the footing more rocky and bushy, not my favorite path day. The path that you see in the next photo, may not look like a path, but thankfully the faint yellow arrow helps you to understand that it is!
After this coastal stretch, I was relieved to climb up and out and onto the narrow highway. The views from above were fantastic. Not only did I have great coastal views, but great sheep views as well. The animals along the way always brighten my day…
I felt as if the road path didn’t last long enough as I quickly found myself back on the rough uneven boggy path right along the coast again. Turns out I turned too soon. I quickly realized it when I came to a rather wide stream. I didn’t want to head all the way back to the road, so I attempted to cross it, and fell right in. Yep, that happened, apparentally I need more balance exercises with the pack on!
The trail ended on the nice smooth pavement with the beautiful Lagg hotel enticing me to stay. . .
But no, I had one more hill to climb to the more affordable option, the Kilmory bunkhouse, only 21 pounds. I happened to be the only one staying there and when the owner went home, I was the only one in the whole place! It was so quiet and I was so tired that I ended up sleeping for 12 straight hours, but not before I had dinner at the Lagg Hotel!
I enjoyed walking through the old castle, all ruins at this point, and not huge, but still something that you wouldn’t find at home on a hiking adventure.
The bus finally came and I was off. I had the driver drop me in the next town past Imachar since I had almost made it there the day before. This next “town” consisted of one grand home that I think may have been a B&B, and a fishing equipment house of some sort. No bus stop stand. Apparently you must be local to know where the bus stops are located. The first half of the trail that day was all on the road that hugged up next to the sea. I passed many sheep, cows, and of course a golf course and the golf course’ tea house and restaurant. About one mile further I reached the first main sight of the day… Machrie Moore, where the famous Standing stones of Arran stand, used for some sort of ceremony many moons ago.
Soon the rain let up and on I trekked. The trail and the view were beautiful. Soon the sun came out making it that much more stunning.
Eventually I reached the Kings caves. The largest of the caves had a metal gate in front of it that is locked during the winter months, but open during the summer months. The size of the main cave was rather impressive and there was old writing and drawings on the wall as well as some new. I didn’t spend too much time in the big cave as the large metal door that could be closed on me freaked me out a bit.
And of course just beyond the cliffs the trail joined a golf course. I felt a bit akward walking through a golf course with all my trekking gear. Luckily I received mostly smiles from the golfers, a few odd looks as well, but better than being chased off the green. 🙂
And the final stretch into Blackwater was on the sandy part of it’s beach. Not too many pure sandy beaches on this Isle… The B&B I stayed at was just up from the beach next to a small loch, called Loch Side B&B. It was a lovely and peaceful place to stay, but about a ten minute walk from the town of Blackwaterfoot. I had dinner at the main hotel in Blackwater, fantastic lasagne, and maybe a glass of wine or two!
I finally arrived to Arran Isle after two flights, one 3+ hour lay-over, one 15 minute bus ride, one 30 minute train ride and a 1-hour ferry ride! Tired? Yes! Worth it? Ending my long day with the view above and dolphin sightings, you bet! My route in case you were interested. . . Seattle – Iceland – Glasgow – bus to Paisley Gilmour Street – train to Ardrossan – Ferry to Arran Isle – Brodick.
